Cultural Theft or Trendy Rebrand? The True Cost of Fashion’s Quiet Appropriation ft. The Scandinavian Scarf

In a global fashion landscape driven by trends, storytelling, and identity, few transformations have been as quietly audacious as this: the Indian dupatta, long a staple in South Asian wardrobes, is now surfacing on Western runways and e-commerce platforms under a new label, the “Scandinavian scarf.”

This isn’t merely a case of renaming a product. It’s a strategy that speaks volumes about cultural appropriation, branding psychology, and the economics of perception.

A Cultural Icon, Repackaged

The dupatta, often crafted from cotton, silk, or chiffon and rich in embroidery, dyeing traditions such as Bandhani or Ikat, and regional artistry, is far more than a fashion accessory. It represents modesty, grace, tradition, and identity. However, when this garment is stripped of its context and reintroduced to global audiences as a “Scandinavian scarf,” its transformation is more than aesthetic; it’s commercial.

Western fashion influencers and brands often display these “scarves” draped loosely over coats or minimalist dresses, described with words like “clean-lined,” “Nordic,” or “winter-chic.” The result is a cultural rebranding, one that detaches the product from its origins while inflating its market value.

The Price of Perception

Consider this: a traditional Indian dupatta purchased in local markets may cost anywhere between ₹200 and ₹2,000. The same product, rebranded and relabeled, is listed on Western platforms for as much as ₹5,000 to ₹20,000, a markup of up to 10x, justified by marketing phrases like “artisan-crafted,” “heirloom quality,” or “exclusive Nordic collection.”

According to recent fashion analysis reports:

• Global fashion is now a $1.77 trillion industry.

• Cultural appropriation tactics, including product renaming and strategic visual language, are increasingly used to reframe Eastern fashion for Western profit.

• Dupatta-inspired “scarves” have seen a 380% increase in search volume on Western fashion platforms in the last two years, with a corresponding price inflation.

  
  

The Allure of Foreign Validation

Why does this strategy work?

Because in many parts of the world, including urban India, there remains a subtle belief that Western approval equals value. When global influencers present something as fashionable or “timeless,” the perception shifts. What was once considered ordinary, or even outdated, is suddenly desirable. The same dupatta that was seen as too “ethnic” for daily wear becomes aspirational when modelled by someone in Copenhagen or Soho.

This phenomenon is deeply rooted in post-colonial consumer psychology. As fashion theorist Tanvi Goswami puts it, “The West doesn’t just borrow, it redefines and sells it back to us with interest.”

Cultural Appropriation vs. Cultural Appreciation

The distinction between borrowing and erasing lies in acknowledgement. When a dupatta is sold as a Scandinavian scarf without reference to its origins, it becomes a case of cultural erasure. The aesthetics are retained, but the story, community, and craftsmanship are written out.

This is not an isolated incident. Indian brassware, khadi fabric, and even bindis have undergone similar rebranding. What makes the dupatta incident striking is the scale and subtlety of its transformation, appearing harmless, even fashionable, while diluting centuries of heritage.

India’s Response: Reclaiming Identity Through Fashion

Fortunately, the tides are turning.

1. Rise of Conscious Consumption

Indian millennials and Gen Z are becoming more mindful of their cultural roots. Homegrown brands are leading campaigns to reframe ethnic wear not as relics of tradition but as powerful expressions of identity.

2. Ethnic Wear Market Boom

According to recent market studies, India’s ethnic wear segment is experiencing double-digit growth annually, with leading conglomerates acquiring or launching traditional wear labels to meet this surge in demand.The market is poised to reach ₹1.2 trillion by 2026.

3. Empowering Artisans and Heritage Clusters

Several Indian startups and NGOs are focusing on building transparent supply chains that highlight the artisans behind these garments. Consumers are now demanding to know: Who made my clothes? And what story does it carry?

The Future of Fashion Must Be Ethical

Fashion doesn’t have to be exploitative. But for it to be truly global, it must also be inclusive. Recognising the cultural, economic, and human layers behind a garment like the dupatta ensures that heritage isn’t mistaken for trend, and that profits aren’t made at the cost of erasure.

As the global fashion economy continues to evolve, the question isn’t just about who wears the dupatta, but who gets credited, who profits, and who gets erased.

Key Takeaways:

• Traditional dupatta = “Scandinavian scarf”: A case study in cultural rebranding.

• Price Markup: Up to 10x in Western markets for the same garment.

• Global fashion industry: $1.77 trillion, with cultural appropriation as a recurring monetisation strategy.

• Ethnic wear resurgence: India’s ethnic wear market is booming, driven by cultural pride and conscious consumerism.

• Reclaiming narrative: Indian consumers and designers are beginning to tell their own stories, and the world is listening.

  
  

Closing Thought:

Cultural fashion is not just fabric; it is memory, meaning, and movement. If brands can profit from the aesthetic, they can also afford to credit the origin.