Erased Origins: How Prada Rebranded the Kolhapuri Chappal as Its Own

In the multi-billion-dollar global fashion industry, borrowing design cues from other cultures is neither new nor unusual. But where does borrowing end and stealing begin? This question has gained fresh urgency after luxury fashion house Prada’s Spring/Summer 2026 Menswear show in Milan, where a familiar silhouette walked the runway: a flat, tan, toe-loop sandal nearly identical to India’s iconic Kolhapuri chappal, and yet, India was nowhere to be found in the credits.

The backlash was immediate, but the implications run deeper than a single show. At stake is not just a sandal, but the erasure of history, identity, and craft.

A 900-Year Legacy: The Original Kolhapuri Chappal

Originating in the 12th century from Kolhapur, Maharashtra, the Kolhapuri chappal is far more than functional footwear. It represents generations of artisanal knowledge, passed down by skilled cobblers who painstakingly handcraft each pair using vegetable-tanned leather, traditional dyes, and time-tested techniques.

By 2019, the chappals were awarded a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, formally recognising their regional and cultural importance.

Each Kolhapuri chappal is a product of days, sometimes weeks, of meticulous work. Yet you can buy one from a local craftsman for as little as ₹250, while luxury houses in Europe repackage similar designs for over ₹1 lakh ($1,200).

Prada’s Runway Moment: Coincidence or Copy?

On the surface, Prada’s 2026 SS Menswear show was a celebration of minimalist silhouettes and bold reinterpretations. But Indian viewers were quick to spot the stark resemblance between Prada’s leather toe-loop sandals and the Kolhapuri chappal.

Not only did the sandals mirror the signature toe-ring design and raw finish of Kolhapuris, but the show also featured leather ring tokens, a clear nod to the chappal’s structural hallmark.

Despite these direct references, Prada offered no acknowledgement of Indian influence in its press notes or interviews. For a brand that prides itself on curating narratives around each collection, the omission was conspicuous—and for many, unforgivable.

Cultural Inspiration or Intellectual Appropriation?

Fashion, like art, thrives on inspiration, but when that inspiration is extracted from marginalised cultures without credit or compensation, it becomes a form of intellectual theft.

According to a 2022 McKinsey report, the global fashion industry is worth $2.5 trillion, yet traditional artisans in India often live below the poverty line, earning less than ₹200 per day.

The Kolhapuri artisans who preserve this legacy aren’t only overlooked but also economically excluded from the value chain. Prada’s silence highlighted this disparity: cultural capital is monetised in Milan, while the creators in Kolhapur struggle to stay afloat amid dwindling patronage and rising material costs.

Not an Isolated Incident

The Kolhapuri sandal isn’t the first Indian design to be rebranded by the West:

• Balenciaga has sold shawl-like dupattas as “scarf dresses” for hundreds of dollars.

• Stella McCartney was criticised for showcasing lehenga-inspired skirts without citing South Asian roots.

• Even the humble bindi and mehendi have been reimagined as "festival accessories" by global brands.

  This pattern reveals a broader industry problem: systemic cultural erasure wrapped in luxury packaging.

  
  

The Case for Credit

What would justice look like in the fashion world? It’s not just about hashtags or apologies. It’s about:

• Crediting source communities in press releases and fashion literature.

• Collaborating with local artisans to create and profit from collections.

• Lobbying for global legal protection for traditional crafts.

There are precedents. Brands like Hermès and Dior have worked with African and Indian artisans to co-create ethically sourced collections. If they can do it, why can’t Prada?

A Fork in the Road for Indian Craft

The Kolhapuri controversy is a wake-up call not just for fashion brands, but for India’s attitude toward its heritage. In the words of a viral tweet: “If we don’t value our culture, someone else will, only they’ll put their label on it.”

India is home to over 3,000 traditional crafts, yet fewer than 10% have GI tags. Meanwhile, urban demand for fast fashion continues to rise, often at the expense of handmade quality.

The number of Kolhapuri chappal artisans has dropped by nearly 40% over the past decade, with many switching to daily wage work due to inconsistent demand and low margins.

In Conclusion: More Than a Sandal

The Kolhapuri chappal isn’t just a case of cultural appropriation; it’s a mirror reflecting the fashion industry’s ongoing blind spot. When a $14 billion brand like Prada borrows a centuries-old design without acknowledgement, it reinforces a troubling message: heritage can be mined, packaged, and sold so long as the storytellers are silenced.

It’s time to change that narrative. Not by gatekeeping culture, but by respecting it enough to give credit, collaborate authentically, and share the stage with those who keep these traditions alive.

Fashion doesn’t have to choose between global influence and local integrity. But it does have to choose whether it leads with ethics or just aesthetics.